Now that we’re in the middle of autumn, there’s still work to do outside, but it is winding down (and moving indoors). What did I do in my garden since the summers end? Well, in the flower garden, as specimens fade, they should be cut back (I’ll talk more about the reasoning in a bit). In the vegetable garden, the beds of vegetables now past should be cleaned up too.
Clean up and Cut Back
In the flower garden, as perennials fade (turn brown), they should be cut back. This is generally done to avoid overwintering pests and pathogens. Those sneaky slugs, for example, will overwinter in plant debris. There are specimens you can leave until spring though. Birds like to forage on the seed heads of Rudbeckia or Coneflowers (though I cut mine back anyway). Grasses, Sedum and Russian Sage can stay, and they give winter interest to the garden. Also, dont cut back your roses! This is important because pruned roses now could cause more die-back come spring (than there would be otherwise); this is because the plant doesn’t have enough time to heal over before the cold weather sets in. Finally, don’t prune Butterfly bush or hydrangea at this time, wait until spring! At this point (end of November), I’ve cut back all that I plan to in the flower garden (everything but the Sedums, Fountain grasses, Russian sage, Rue, Butterfly bushes, and roses).
In the vegetable garden, in early October, I cleaned out everything. It all went into the compost pile (except anything that had fungus or pathogens). I left the lettuce patch for a while though because the August planting of lettuce allowed me to harvest until mid-late October! After cleaning out the garden, compost and fertilizer (organic!) can be added to the soil, or it can wait until spring (this is what I plan to do).
On the lawn, leaves should be removed as much as possible. In my yard I have Oaks and Maple, so I usually have to spend at least 3 consecutive weekend days removing the leaves. Usually we mow down the leaves (we have a mulching lawn mower), and just leave the shredded leaves on the lawn; it breaks down and adds nutrients to the lawn’s soil. Anywhere that cant be mulched/mowed, has to be removed (like my patio).
What can be planted?
You mean we can still plant? You bet! Anything that has been purchased or is in a container can go into the ground because the soil is still warm (though we are nearing the end of this). Also, you can continue to plant bulbs. I planted my bulbs at the end of October (lots of crocus and some wood hyacinth (though, we’ll see how these do – I may have to move them to a more shady location).
In the vegetable garden, garlic should have been planted by the first week in November (I planted mine in the last week of October). This is my first year trying garlic. It’s one crop that you plant in the fall, to be harvested the following June/July. I planted a hardneck variety and am looking forward to seeing the results. I covered the garlic with a thick layer of shredded leaves as a mulch. In the March, I’ll fertilize it (and maybe remove the mulch then or in early April).
Fall is a good time to restore the lawn and to fertilize. I over-seeded in August, then fertilized at the end of September. At this point if you seed the lawn, some may germinate, but most won’t until early spring.
Providing Winter Protection
Many perennial specimens need protection going into the winter. I let the leaves collect in the garden as it provides a layer of “mulch” as protection. The leaves that mound around roses and hydrangea provide some winter protection. In another week or so, I’ll pile up leftover bark mulch on Heuchera, Gaura, Roses, and Hydrangea where its needed (where the leaves didn’t make it). The general rule of thumb is to wait until the ground has frozen, otherwise critters may overwinter in the mulch. But I tend to do it a little earlier, with no ill effect; I do this because it’s when I have time and because the mulch I’ve saved will be frozen and I wont be able to spread it.
Broad-leaf specimens, like Rhododendron, as well as roses benefit from an application of dormant oil spray (like Wiltpruf). This should be done between Thanksgiving and Christmas. It coats the leaves with a wax like substance helping the plant avoid dessication. If the plant is in an exposed location, it’s important to make the application or to cover the plant with burlap. Another application can be made in February (I usually can’t make this application though, due to the snow cover).
Compost Maintenance
I have a 3 bin compost system. This was my first full year, and I used all the compost I had made last year, so there was little left. But, all of the material I composted last year is nearly done and I moved it to the 3rd bin. In the 2nd bin I put material that was half way finished. Now the first bin is being used for debris and kitchen scraps gathered between fall and next spring/summer.
What can be overwintered ?
Annual specimens like Geraniums and Dracena can be brought in and kept alive over the winter, to be used again in the spring/summer outdoors. Last year I overwintered 3 Dracena, which I used in ornamental barrels. I’ve also overwintered Geraniums. To overwinter either, you can remove them from the planters outside and re-pot. You can also make vegetative cuttings (of Geraniums); to do this you clip a healthy section of the plant, dip the tip that was cut in rooting hormone, and place in soil-less mix or sand. When root development has started, the cuttings can be replanted into potting soil. These specimens should be placed in sunny south or west facing window.
Another specimen that can be overwintered is the Mandevilla plant. The plant can be lifted out of the ground and placed in a container. I keep mine in the container all season, so I can skip this step. I trimmed the plant and placed it in a south facing window. This is my 3rd season overwintering this plant.
Before bringing in plants from outside, they should be sprayed thoroughly with neem, so that you don’t bring in any critters along with the plant. My Mandevilla plant is prone to mealy bug, so I have to watch it carefully and spray the plant when I see signs of it.
House plants that can flower
By early October, I bring in the Christmas cactus. But I do leave it outside when the temperatures are between 40F and 49F (only this cactus!), for at least 3 nights. This is because the cooler temperatures trigger the cactuss bud formation. I always have flowers for the month of October because of this (I think mine is an early bloomer).
This year I also bought an Amaryllis and have some beautiful blooms right now (again in a south facing window). They are so easy to grow and like to be pot bound. Just follow the directions on the box. But I don’t usually put the plant into dormancy like the directions. When treated like an ordinary houseplant, a period of rest from blooming will inevitably be followed by a period of bloom.
I purchased some small healthy Poinsettia and put them in the south facing window too. I plan to try and keep them so that they will bloom again next year. They need 10+ weeks of 14 hours of darkness before they will bloom again. This is usually done in September to early November. It will be my first time trying this, so Ill have to report back on how it goes.
Finally I have 4 Klanchoe (in one pot), which I cut back (and sprayed with neem), before bringing it inside. They’re also in a sunny south facing window and have buds. I find that this plant does bloom for me, though never as profuse as when it comes from the florist. It seems to need periods of rest and will probably bloom on and off all winter. This plant is also prone to mealy bugs, so I’ll be on the lookout for those and will probably end up spraying with neem on a regular basis.
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I received my first seed catalog (usually they come in January). It’s from a local company and the variety and prices are great. I’ve already started to plan what I’ll be seeding come February! As we get nearer to that time, I’ll write some on the topic.
As we head into the winter, the plants inside keep me busy enough. Truthfully I’m thankful for the break! Hope you all have a wonderful holiday and that the winter is short!
Happy Gardening!
Susan